Travel in the Time of COVID: Trading the Beaches of Colombia for Snow at the Grand Canyon

Planning international travel in the time of COVID has its risks, but after foregoing a big trip in 2020, I was longing for my next adventure. I had hoped that things would have normalized enough by the beginning of 2021 that I would have no problem traveling to a country that had (1) either no testing or 4+ day advance testing requirements and (2) no quarantines. After researching countries fitting that criteria, I chose Colombia. Tropical islands, rugged coastlines, mountains and lakes plus only a 5 hour direct flight from Houston and in the same time zone. I had planned on seeing Bogota, Cartagena, Isla Mucura, Tayrona National Park, Medellin and Guatape. Flights, hotels, ground transportation and even a restaurant reservation were booked (and in many instances pre-paid). Colombia dropped its testing requirement for entry and I was getting excited.

From the date I made my first booking, I had been checking government websites to make sure nothing had changed in Colombia with respect to testing/quarantines/lockdowns. After returning home after the New Year, news reports from Colombia indicated that lockdowns, quarantines and the entry testing requirement would resume. Parts of Bogota were about to be locked down, and I was sure other cities would follow. When booking, I knew that COVID could derail my trip and I tried to make refundable reservations when possible. I was able to salvage all but a few nights of hotel reservations. Although extremely disappointed to miss sunning on sandy beaches, hiking through Tayrona, exploring the museums of Bogota, and learning about the resurgence of the infamous Medellin, I was thankful that I did not also take a huge hit to the pocketbook.

As I had already given notice at work that I would be out for the last 2 weeks of January, I decided that I would still take 1 week of vacation and travel somewhere domestically. Somewhere I had never been before. Somewhere without lockdowns. Somewhere where the government would graciously allow me to eat at a restaurant…indoors. The Florida Keys was a strong contender, but I ultimately settled on the Grand Canyon via Las Vegas.

Las Vegas

My last trip to Las Vegas was during the summer of 2008 for my mom’s 60th birthday. It was hot (111 degrees) and everything – shows, restaurants, casinos, pools and even the streets were packed. Las Vegas has taken a huge hit during COVID and the deals offered by the resorts showed it. I had always wanted to stay at the Wynn, and with a buy 2 nights get 1 free special AND a $50 breakfast credit each day, I jumped on it.

The Wynn is gorgeous. I enjoyed a special dinner at Wing Lei and a butler-style tray passed all you can eat brunch at La Cave (better than a buffet – you don’t even have to get up from the table). The Spa at Wynn was excellent, but unfortunately the luxurious relaxation rooms were closed off because of the COVID. All of the staff I chatted with were very grateful that things were open, although at limited capacity. There were no shows or concerts and reservations were required at all restaurants, but otherwise things seemed pretty normal. The enforcement of a mask policy at outdoor pools was ridiculous, but at least it wasn’t 111 degrees.

On my way back through Las Vegas, I stayed at Trump International (amazing views of the Vegas Strip) and hit up the famous Peppermill Restaurant and Lounge for a farm hand-sized breakfast. The decor was as over the top as I had hoped. Cocktail waitresses taking drink orders at 7:15am – so Vegas.

South Rim – Grand Canyon

Seeing the Grand Canyon was the main reason for my trip out west. I rented a car and drove the 4.5 hours southeast of Vegas. About half way through the drive, it started snowing and by the time I arrived the Grand Canyon was completely covered by a dense mix of fog and snow.

Thankfully, the next morning the fog had cleared and the majestic Grand Canyon was on full display decorated with a soft layer of snow.

After a large breakfast, I hiked portions of the Rim Trail – slowly, as I had to traverse patches of ice. Breathtaking views and, for much of the hike, total silence.

I stayed 2 nights at the historic El Tovar Hotel, just steps from the rim of the Grand Canyon. The hotel had a cozy restaurant with fireplace and was close to the Hopi House and Kolb art galleries. It was nice to have a day free of set plans – just wandering around with my camera trying to do justice to the beautiful landscape I was seeing before me.

For a last-minute consolation vacation, Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon hit the spot. Some pool time, lots of good food, a little hiking and some of the most beautiful scenery our country has to offer. It was a great pick me up after a rough year. Dreaming of more travel in 2021.

Surely there is something in the unruffled calm of nature that overawes our little anxieties and doubts; the sight of the deep-blue sky and the clustering stars above seems to impart a quiet to the mind.

Jonathan Edwards

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